Wise words from my makeup teacher.
Having spent 2 years of my life and several thousands of dollars on my beauty and makeup education (not including years of experience!) I thought I’d save you the same kind of dough and time and give you the best of what I know. Instead of starting with skincare (because that could be a book right there), here’s a section by section approach to all things makeup to start.
Many people will argue the purpose of makeup; they either think it’s a waste of money and makes you look tacky, that it’s designed to enhance your natural beauty, or you’re in my school of thought which is it helps cover up the Ugly.
Now don’t get me wrong, makeup can be expensive and time consuming but to those people I say you clearly don’t understand the meaning of freebies and economising. And it is great to enhance your natural beauty if you already look like Miranda Kerr. For the rest of us, we are usually Average. Take my massive nose or chicken pox scars as an example. There’s nothing wrong with Average, but it’s not ok when the Average kicks the crap out of our self esteem and confidence. Cue: bottles and tubs of glorious goo to remedy the situation.
Here’s my ultimate pro-level advice,
Point one: Foundation and Concealer
You don’t need to spend $85 on a foundation let alone $30 on a foundation. The trick is understanding your colouring and skin type. My cheap “sh1t I have no makeup” foundation that cost me $8 is as good as my $20 foundation, which is as good as the $85 foundations I used to sell. Trial and error, but you will find one you love, just remember that if you have dry skin, don’t use anything that says powder finish, and if you’re oily avoid things that make you look like you smeared olive oil on your face. Pretty simple. Give Rimmel a look at though as they have good colours and reasonable prices.
The worst advice I hear people flippantly throw around is that your foundation must match your exact skin tone on your face. Big. Fat. No. And there are two reasons:
1. Unless you have alabaster skin from your hairline to your toes, most people get a somewhat uneven tan throughout the year where their arms or legs may be a shade or two darker. Now if it’s only slight, this isn’t an issue, but the number one rule my makeup teacher taught me is match the foundation to the arms and chest. When people look at you, they’re not nose to nose staring at your face, they’re usually looking at you from a distance and no one likes the pale face look which you THINK is only visible in a photo with the flash on. This doesn’t mean go cake foundation on your arms to check it’s the same shade, just be mindful when you are choosing your colour that you may need to choose a warmer tone to match the rest of you.
2. Don’t touch anything with a pink base. You may have some pink colouring or a pink undertone to your skin, but foundation with a brown base tone is always 200% more flattering. No don’t go for the baked brown colour, look at the undertone. You can still find very pale foundations that don’t have that pink glow. More on pink later but if you think you look weird, chances are you’ve chosen the wrong depth or darkness, and the brown vs pink has nothing to do with it.
This is a lot easier than most people realise. Look at yourself in the mirror and choose three shades that are closest to what you see – remembering you want to match to your arms and chest. Choose the one you think is right, then the one shade lighter, and the one shade darker. Draw of stripe of each on your jawline and blend in a upward swipe. Whichever one disappears into the rest of your skin is the right one. REMEMBER THOUGH! If your arms and chest are super brown, you may want to choose a darker shade and blend that baby out.
Concealer colour should be half to one shade lighter, or it can even be the identical shade if it’s a fuller coverage concealer.
Moisturiser moisturiser moisturiser. Primer if you really have the energy and spare budget. When I’m doing a makeup job I always use a sponge. Don’t use these for day to day however as they soak up half your liquid foundation, your fingers are the perfect tool. Foundation brushes are really only practical for makeup artists who are going through a high volume of clients each day as they are far more economical, but they do tend to take longer and leave a streaky look which needs to be re-blended (which is only really good when you’re getting paid to do it).
Foundation comes before concealer, the reason being you’ll often wipe off half your concealer if you do it first.
I like to dot. Plonk a reasonable dot on your forehead, nose, each cheek, chin, each eye socket, neck and décolletage. Yes you heard me, eye sockets.
Then rub it in like sunscreen EVERYWHERE. Under your nose, on your eyelids, temples, up to your bottom lash line, blend down your neck and under your jaw and even over your ears. Right now you’re thinking I must look like a cake face everyday but remember you’re not applying half the bottle, and you’ve hopefully opted for a medium coverage foundation. (No pancake foundation please ladies.)
Keep blending and remember to shift around in the reflection of your mirror, turn side on, open your jaw and blend, and if you’re going for a slightly darker shade to match your tan, even blend it slightly around to the back of your neck and behind the ears. I refuse to see another mask face look.
By now your colour should look incredibly even, you can always dot a little extra over redness where needed. Move on to your concealer and apply everywhere you see shadows. This could be under the eyes, inner corner of the eye, around the nose and under your chin, don’t forget blemishes.
Then set that baby with a translucent loose powder, dusted with a soft powder brush. I’ll get to brushes later too.
Bam. Perfect skin. Please for the love of god though don’t ever stop there. The point of foundation is to create a blank canvass for the rest of your makeup. You are literally 2D right now, which will lead onto our next lesson of sexy, bone structure faking contouring.
All my love,